Paul Poiret’s first collaboration with Devambez involved commissioning the firm to make notepaper for him designed by Paul Iribe, who had just illustrated the book Les Robes de Paul Poiret.

A key exponent of Art déco fashion, Paul Poiret revolutionized the image of women. His first perfume, Parfums de Rosine, was launched on 24 June 1911 with a glittering and unforgettable costume ball in Paris, referred to as a “tropical thousand-and-second night”. His quest for elegance found a natural echo in the work of Devambez. In 1928, he produced PAN. Annuaire du luxe à Paris for Devambez, a sumptuously designed and richly illustrated directory of the greatest names in the history of luxury goods, haute couture and fashion.

It featured Jeanne Lanvin, Hermès, Callot Sœurs, Worth, Madeleine Vionnet, Dunhill, Old England, and artists such as Boucher, Dufy, Cocteau, Foujita, Édy Legrand and de Valério.

The frontispiece showed Paul Poiret holding a copy of PAN, photographed by Boris Lipnitzki. Both Poiret and Lipnitzki presented their maisons in the book: Poiret presented his clothing collection, and Boris Lipnitzki commissioned Lucien Boucher to draw him as a camera.

Paul Poiret and Paul Iribe, notepaper, Paris, Devambez, ca. 1908

Paul Poiret, PAN. Annuaire du luxe à Paris, 1928, Paris, Devambez, 1928